Chicken of Grapes

Chardonnay is a very divisive grape. Most either love it or hate it, while others, love to hate it.

But to me it is the greatest white wine grape and I am not the only one who believes this.

For one, it commands the highest price for any still white wine. Grand Cru White Burgundy, from places such as Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne can reach unbelievable prices.

And globally, it is the second most planted white grape. The most planted white is Airen and it is used almost excessively to make brandy.

In the vineyard, Chardonnay is relatively easy to grow. It is very adaptable to a wide variety of locations and is pretty much a blank canvas for any winemaker. In fact, The Court of Master Sommelier syllabus categorize Chardonnay under the neutral grape umbrella calling it, “a non-aromatic white varietal that often shows winemaking influence and growing conditions.”

That is why you see Chardonnay everywhere. Many are trying to make a Grand Cru Burgundy. Some come close, while others make a commodity.

The volume of it around the world has given rise to the ABC drinker, Anything But Chardonnay. And with so much bad Chardonnay in the world, it is easy to understand their feelings.

In addition to the greatest archetypal white wine, Chardonnay is the main grapes used for much of Champagne, which has got to be a dessert-island-wine for many.

There is simply no other grape that makes such sought after wine.

And to dismiss any wine made from it altogether would be grapist!

Yet we have all had to suck back many different and often bad chardonnays in our day.

This is why I call it the chicken of grapes.

The poor poultry can be a thing of beauty, but nearly always misses the mark. As a protein source, it is a commonly grown animal which is why you see it on every menu. Most times it is served as dried out, flavourless white meat.

In planes, trains and automobiles, chicken never reaches its apogee. Like Chardonnay it is a neutral meat and can carry flavour in any direction a chef is willing to take it.

But from the right kitchen a perfectly roasted chicken is a match like no other. With its’ crispy skin, tender meat, bursting with the right flavours, you know you have hit the culinary jack pot.

Guess what’s the perfect potion to pair with poultry? White Burgundy of course! Bright and tangy, full bodied, all citrus, and apples wrapped in a myriad of spices, often with a tangy salinity. Stick that in your glass and swirl it!

Or maybe a mature vintage Champagne, brimming with brioche and biscuits and just the right amount of bubble to wash it all down.

So to all the ABC people who tell me endlessly how they hate Chardonnay because it is too oaky, I say reach for something from any place between Corton to Macon, Adelaide Hills, Willamette Valley or even here The County, and let me know if it changed your mind.