Italian Grapes

I like to say that we eat Italian but drink French. By that I mean most of us eat pasta or pizza, but when was the last time you had duck a l’orange, bouillabaisse, or a coq au vin? When was the last time you settled into a French restaurant? Broadly speaking, Italian food is ubiquitous and easy to come by. How many pizza ovens are there in the county currently?

French grape varieties are easy to find anywhere in the world that wine is made. All grape varieties have a home and native land and for the most part, that is in France. cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris. All from France. Even though there are countless wine regions growing all of these grapes and many more.

However, Italy is home to more indigenous grape varieties than France, Spain and Greece, combined. Yet they are not often planted outside of the county.

So it is with great excitement when I find these varieties in the wild.

Did you know  there are three vineyards in the county with Italian grapes in them? Pecorino, Refosco and Dolcetto are all grown here, yet only the Pecorino is being bottled.

Why aren’t there more Italian grapes grown outside of the boot? One reason is climate. Specifically, the climate here in the county is not conducive to growing Italian grapes. It is much warmer in Italy with earlier springs and warmer falls that allow the grapes the required time to fully ripen.

The most common Italian grapes that make the more familiar wines wouldn’t stand a chance in this climate, nor would many make it through the brutal winters that make growing grapes here so much more challenging.

Beyond terroir, there is tradition that has allowed France to have such a stronghold on the global wine market. There is a long and well established history of winemaking in regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. That is not to say there isn’t as much history of winemaking in Italy, but the focus on export has helped France gain traction in international markets.

France has actively promoted its wines internationally through organizations like the French National Interprofessional Office of Wine (ONIVINS) thathave supported marketing and export efforts, helping French wine varieties gain traction in international marketing.

Things are changing in Italy. Over the last 2 decades, the wine marketing machine has been moving quickly, helping spread the word of the unique and indigenous grapes of the county. Now there are Italian grapes grown in places like California, Australia, Chile and Argentina, to name a few.

This is why there has never been a better time to drink Italian wines, particularly from regions outside of those most common: Tuscany, Veneto and Piedmont. Try something you’ve never heard of before, you just might be surprised! And if you’re lucky enough to find one, open a bottle made using Italian grapes that was not grown in Italy.