The Role of a Sommelier, Part 2
Any form of art has professional critics, and their critics have people who follow them. The critics offer guidance and insights to navigate the overwhelming choice of all art forms. Be that film, music, books or any other form. Chances are you have a favourite critic and value their advice.
The role of a sommelier in a great restaurant does not just provide exceptional wine service, but also acts a critic of wine. They are the gatekeepers of what is on offer, and in a perfect world hold their personal integrity to high standards.
A sommelier will taste every wine before it makes it on the list in order to determine quality. The wines have to meet their objective standards and not be influenced by owners who’s friends may own a winery in Tuscany, for example. This is the most important thing a sommelier will do in a restaurant. It defines their critical point of view and solidifies their integrity of it.
They will research the regions, the wines and the winemakers to be able to share these tiny details with consumers at the restaurant. It is all part of the deluxe service of a great restaurant.
As the saying goes in the restaurant world, you can forgive average food with great service, but you can’t forgive average service with exceptional food.
A great restaurant will have one, or a team of sommeliers looking after all things wines, with researching, budgeting and cataloguing among their responsibilities. Wine service during the meal is the zenith of their craft. This includes making recommendations to patrons, opening wines to determine they should be decanted. Almost all wines will benefit from decanting, especially in a restaurant setting where the wines are opened and consumed very quickly. But the two main reasons to decant is to separate the wine from any sediment or to aerate it.
However, wine service does not stop there. Following through by topping up wines throughout the meal is the pinnacle of great wine service. Ever had multiple different waiters try to top up your glass after you have told the first that you don’t want any more? It is not only an irritating break in conversation and can feel too much like you’re being forced to drink and buy more -it shows the team of waiters is not communicating. This would never be the case when there is a sommelier on the floor who’s job it is to focus on wine service.
Fine dining is just as much an art as any other form. At its core it is social theatre where you the patron are part of the play. Instead of the seven stages, there may be seven courses. In any great restaurant the sommelier will always play a strong supporting role to the chef and waiters. After all, wine is the most expensive thing you will buy during dinner, and it should be regarded with the care and attention to detail of such a luxury.